The Season of Possibilities: ELLE UK’s Autumn/Winter 2022 Trend Report

The dresses are short! Or long. Gothic black is back! Just like minimalist white. Looks today don’t circle around, but rather evolve – one idea quickly building onto the next, giving you more and more choice. Here are the main talking points on the tracks set to define AW22:

The look: Tweed 3.0

Isidore Montag

“Devoting the entire collection to tweed is a tribute,” says Virginie Viard, who went so far as to cover the Chanel show room in different shades of fabric. That’s where the reverence ended, though: Queen in the Highlands it wasn’t (though fishing waders made a surprise appearance on the trail). This season’s trend is sweet but not sweet, sophisticated but still playful, with an optimistic and thoroughly youthful spirit. Tweed shorts are suitable for the office, anyone?

The trend: the school uniform

aw22 fashion trends

Miu Miu, Louis Vuitton and Paul & Joe

Imaxtree

Pleated checkered kilts, peter pan collars, half-undone ties, white tights and sportswear tops: AW22 produced plenty of looks designed to hide behind bike sheds. A 60s insouciance inspired the Miu Miu runway – these are styles for girls who are too cool for school.

The Detail: Tied Up

The printed silk scarf lights up this season. Clash of colors and contrasts, because anything goes – as long as you master the Sloane Ranger knot. You can also harden it with a leather tie.

The silhouette: Gender neutral

Prada, Saint Laurent By Anthony Vaccarello and Erdem

The lines are blurred when it comes to gender dress. What works now is a flexible approach to men’s and women’s fashion, using timeless tailoring as a starting point to subvert style norms, as seen in Erdem: “I was thinking of the avant-garde expressionism of Weimar Berlin . Imagine characters like the dancer Anita Berber, and how she would wear a costume. I loved the idea of ​​showing the same tailored silhouettes to men and women – they’re fluid and interchangeable.

The room: On the sidelines

Matthieu Blazy’s Bottega Veneta debut was full of unerring success. But this season’s star will surely be her fringed leather midi skirt. “Bottega Veneta is essentially pragmatic, because it is a leather goods company. Because it specializes in bags, it’s all about getting moving and going somewhere. It’s basically a craft idea in motion,” he says, of his inspiration for the swinging bangs. “It’s style rather than fashion in its timelessness. This is part of his quiet power.

Length: Short and sweet

aw22 fashion trends

Molly Goddard, Simone Rocha and Jil Sander

Imaxtree

A youthful tremor of mini-dresses appeared on the AW22 catwalks, where 60s rebellion clashed with 2000s exuberance in a pastel-hued runway show that was anything but sickly. Miu Miu hit hemming heights again, but cute little looks were everywhere, from Loewe to Simone Rocha. ‘My most recent collection was originally influenced by the [Irish myth] Children of Lir. Children transform when they are still small, and I wanted youth and naivety to translate into the silhouette. So some of the hems got very adolescent, very micro,” says Rocha.

The Accessory: Thigh Club

aw22 fashion trends

Bottega Veneta and Giambattista Valli

Imaxtree

“The higher, the better” is the motto of this season’s shoes. These are boots to pair with mini skirts and dresses – watch out for metallic tones and jewels.

Shape: Maxi coats

aw22 fashion trends

Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello, Versace and Miu Miu

Imaxtree

We don’t usually like style dictates, but AW22 made one thing clear: when in doubt, throw a long, thin coat over it.

The Statement: Catsuits vs Bodysuits

Dolce & Gabbana, Alaïa and Christian Dior

How short, tight, cut-out and see-through can you be? It’s a trend for those who dare to go bare.

The vibe: I see through you

Risky necklines, form-fitting briefs studded with delicate sequins and sumptuous lace garments dominated the catwalks this season. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ take involved crystal-studded mesh numbers, while Erdem’s ’30s-inspired collection included plenty of translucent lace dresses.

The texture: Pull the wool over

It’s time to turn down the heat and turn to sweater dressing. From the coat to the cardigan, via the two-piece and the twin set, everything is allowed as long as it is knitted.

The atmosphere: Pretty in punk

Gucci, Miu Miu and Philosophy of Lorenzo Serafini

Rebellion is always a good idea. Punk energy ran through Fall ’22: lingerie toughened up with crystal embellishments, vinyl boots gave babydoll silhouettes an edge, and feminine subversion was all over the place. If you only accept one item, opt for the velvet and diamond choker from Miu Miu.

The return: corsetry

aw22 fashion trends

Fendi and Versace

Imaxtree

Last season’s sexual obsession went from hot to high for AW22. Securing a corset over a tonal top is the new way to body-con.

The Moment: Oh My Goth

aw22 fashion trends

Alexander McQueen, Givenchy and Dolce & Gabbana

Imaxtree

Go for leather this season – make sure it’s black, smooth and super shiny. More protective than provocative, AW22 styles look like a kind of bulletproof vest. From military-inspired corsetry at Dior and Balmain to wrap coats and tinted peaks at Dolce & Gabbana and shiny combat boots at Alexander McQueen, embrace the dark side.

This article appears in the September 2022 issue of ELLE, available on newsstands from July 28.

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