Global Fashion Collective (GFC) showed for the fourth time at New York Fashion Week this month. Led by Jamal Abdourahman, director of Vancouver Fashion Week, the second largest fashion week in North America, GFC has quickly become one of the best showcases for new talent from around the world, producing shows in various fashion capitals. Global Fashion Collective launched at Tokyo Fashion Week in October 2017, followed by a presentation at New York Fashion Week in February 2018 and Paris in 2019. This month, GFC will add Milan to its impressive roster, followed by a showcase at London Fashion Week in February 2023.
Since its inception in 2001, Vancouver Fashion Week has been dedicated to cultivating the success of established designers and award-winning emerging designers through its global perspective and highly multicultural approach. Global Fashion Collective follows the same shrewd approach with its international fashion shows.
This innovative fashion producer continues to surprise and delight with its choice of designers. Twelve international talents were featured in four exclusive Spring/Summer 2023 shows during New York Fashion Week at a chic Fifth Avenue venue. Designers for this month’s showcase in New York included DISINSERTED (Japan/Unisex), Samantha Darryanto (USA/Women), Kylie Michelle (USA/Women), Shivajothi (Canada/Unisex), LUNALEE (USA/Women), DR Mayaa (Japan/Women), Ay Lelum (Women’s), The True B (India/Women), Metamarstowns (UAE/Women), Alex S Yu (Canada/Women), Ruby or no ruby (China/Women) and carlton jones (USA/Women).
Founded in 2020, avant-garde Japanese brand Unserten is led by a diverse team of designers who aim to create stylish and inclusive designs. This new collection is inspired by the black and white photography of Japanese photographer Moriyama Daido and the blurry and harsh “Are-Bure-Boke” style. The 16 looks featured are an artistic yet wearable collection; avant-garde elements like ruffled hardware and asymmetry are applied to blazers and pants. Photographic images printed on various tops and an embroidered poem on the sides of the blazers add an intriguing dimension to this strong new collection.
carlton jones is an eponymous New York-based brand that offers coveted resort wear for men and women. In New York, Carlton showed off 15 gorgeous new looks in a color palette of white, beige, pink and peach. Headliners included a canary yellow cropped long sleeve top and matching skirt with a thigh high slit and a luxe silky beige jumpsuit with a layered sheer cropped jacket.
Self-taught womenswear designer Samantha Darryanto launched her eponymous label while still studying mechanical engineering at MIT, altering vintage clothing from thrift stores. Today, her brand offers a contemporary twist on traditional Asian clothing and she still uses materials like a blue quilted moving blanket. Drawing inspiration from her Indonesian heritage, she uses custom-designed black and white patterned batik fabric to create dresses and tops. Soft fabrics and silhouettes offer an interesting contrast to technical elements and streetwear style. An asymmetrical blazer with two black buckles is a tribute to Thom Browne.
Newly graduated from Parsons School of Design, Kylie Michelle Miller presented her Graduate Collection, a series of fun, bright and inventive designs inspired by the five senses and the natural landscape. A stunning red coat used a paper raffia technique, and the multicolored three-dimensional element on its closure dress was actually created from cut-out elastic bands. A short pastel green vest with lavender inside incorporated an element of the “fragrant” sense. Another look featured sound and hearing, with Miller stitching shells onto rounded sleeves that clinked with every step.
Sri Lankan-Canadian designer Sujitha Shivajothi creates gender-neutral clothing by hand in Vancouver, British Columbia. Her latest collection, “Capsule: 02” is sleek and understated. Shivajothi fuses bespoke traditional techniques with a South Asian aesthetic that honors her cultural background. This collection includes 12 looks in an understated color palette of black, white, gray and cream. The designer also presents her vision of classic white buttonholes; using banded and asymmetrical collars and featuring columns of buttons. A standout look was a cropped cream jacket with black tulle elements, layered over a simple black t-shirt and white pants.
Luna Lee, a Korean-American designer based in Los Angeles, graduated from Parsons BFA. Her label showcases their take on American sportswear and showcases a clever technique of padded zigzag panels, seen in a tank dress and oversized hoodie with cutouts to the chest. Besides the bright pop of mustard yellow, Lee uses a simple, neutral color palette. This collection is comfortable and wearable, pairing loose tops with shorts, asymmetrical tank tops with a long skirt. or an oversized brown hoodie with long drawstrings and white shorts.
Dr. MAAYA is a colorful and wacky brand created by a Japanese neurosurgeon who also studied fashion design at Central Saint Martins in London. A voluminous dress uses smaller dresses as cap sleeves and is layered to create a skirt. Wacky “clothesline” looks showed models walking with their arms outstretched to reveal a hanging assortment of miniature hoodies and rainbow garments on tiny hangers. She also designed special rainbow shoes to match with any look.
Ruby or no ruby, based in Los Angeles, is a label created by Jiarui (Ruby) Cai, a former stockbroker. His clothes are inspired by hip hop culture and the freedom of LA style. She uses huge googly eyes, oversized mittens with reverse stitch detailing and a bright peach and yellow color palette to create a playful vibe.
Alex S. Yu, an eponymous Vancouver-based brand, launched in 2014 offers colorful, minimalist clothing with a dreamy, fantasy aesthetic. This season he has added pretty children’s pieces to the collection for the first time, in gingham and tulle. purple. Highlights included casual womenswear, with harness elements layered over neutral maxi dresses, a cream-colored three-piece set with a stunning cut-out skirt, and a jaw-dropping metallic blue oversized dress.
The True B is an India-based luxury fashion brand by Binal Patel, who studied at Istituto Marangoni in Milan. Bold styles and flowing silhouettes in bright red, pink and orange characterize this very feminine brand. An electric orange dress hugs the waist perfectly, with hand-embroidered black flowers strewn across the skirt. This collection also includes two bags handcrafted by Patel using khatli working techniques: a shimmering silver clutch and a bucket bag with pink pom poms.
Ay Lelum is a design house of the Snuneymuxw First Nation in Nanaimo, British Columbia, Canada. Sister designer duo Aunalee and Sophia Boyd-Good showcase the beauty of Coast Salish culture and aesthetics through beautiful fabrics, vibrant colors and elegant silhouettes. Their flowing outerwear and range of dresses came in muted grays and tans, but also hot pink, electric orange and rich scarlet.
MetaMarsCities has the ambitious goal of building the first self-sufficient city and society on Mars. Their first lead this season is from Z, a subsidiary brand offering innovative new-age designs. Among the looks inspired by the mathematical equations used to calculate chaos on Mars are a bronze bodysuit with a swirling mass of shiny copper wires, an orange and pink mohair coat with yellow details and a flowing train in sheer gray fabric in a tight white dress. and a computer-generated silver chest piece.