Female designers dominated London Fashion Week

Photo: Nensi Dojaka; Chopova Lowena; 16Arlington; Ben Broomfield

Ask anyone who cares about fashion and they’ll tell you the same thing: designers at London Fashion Week are consistently among the season’s most experimental. That’s because incubators like Fashion East, as well as retailer-led programs like Matches and Browns, give young designers money and mentorship. The result: freedom to explore and play.

This season, designers have reigned supreme, with the likes of Molly Goddard, Nensi Dojaka and the ladies of Chopova Lowena pushing the boundaries and showing silhouettes that are too big for a catwalk and bodies that aren’t usually depicted, placing women’s needs at the forefront of design. .

Photo: Chris Yates

Karoline Vitto has made an important collection for women and women. Growing up in Brazil, she often felt embarrassed going to the beach. So in her collection, instead of conforming, she highlighted the areas she was told to cover with carved silver frames. As his show notes read, “The bulge of an armpit, a squish of hip fat, or the curve of a rear roll became the subject of Vitto’s radically sultry vignettes.” Model Alva Claire closed the show in a stunning long black dress with a visible hip. It was glorious.

Photo: Courtesy of Chopova Lowena

Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena’s awe-inspiring designs, known for the viral kilt-like chainmail skirt, were on full display for the first time since the pair scooped an LVMH award in 2020. But only if you caught it – models were passing by faster than people could catch them for an Instagram video. The duo paired their signature skirt with garland-like sweater vests, printed blouses with cutouts and corsets, as well as new pieces like voluminous printed dresses and cardigans.

Photo: Ben Broomfield

Molly Goddard reminded me that fashion can be a reprieve. This season, the designer known for her seductive and frilly designs has crafted poofy tulle dresses and skirts in neon and polka dot prints. The finale was a monstrous white tulle dress massive enough to get revenge on the men.

Photo: Courtesy of Di Petsa

Di Petsa designer Dimitra Petsa, known for her signature “wetlook” (dresses and underwear that look wet) wants to create clothes for our growing bodies. “Our bodies change so much,” she said. “And not just during pregnancy, but the bloating, the weight gain.” This was a priority when designing fabric that stretches, pants with healing crystals woven into chakra points, and a corset that comes undone for those who are breastfeeding. The stunning collection, including a dress printed with a photo of ancient Greek pottery found in the Mediterranean, was a nice progression from her already impressive pieces.

Photo: Courtesy of Completedworks

Completedworks’ Anna Jewsbury has created her own world of treasures – interesting shapes in the form of jewelry, ceramics, bowls and mugs – that I would love to live in. Her latest jewelry collection is an extension of popular pieces she’s done before, like darling earrings, in new materials like resin. She’s created new pieces like pearl earrings and sculptural silver signs and necklaces that make me want to kiss cluttercore on my neck.

Photo: Courtesy of Nensi Dojaka

Nensi Dojaka, who won the LVMH Prize last year, has proven that it has scope. Sure, the designer who studied lingerie at Central Saint Martins does variations on her signature look, but this collection offered a bit of glamor in the form of silver mini dresses and cut-out party pants. (Plus, Emily Ratajkowski walked in a stunning pink dress.)

Photo: Jason Lloyd Evans

Designed by Erdem Moralıoğlu and styled by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, the Erdem collection is exemplary of how I would want to dress if attending the Queen’s funeral. All looks, such as a corset top paired with a midi skirt, were covered in a sheer veil and styled with black loafers.

Photo: Victor Virgil/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Jonathan Anderson, who turned Loewe, showed off his first self-titled collection in years – a big bubble dress, a mini that looks like wrapper and a reverse sweater with an attached hanger. We love a collection with a sense of humor.

Photo: Courtesy of 16Arlington

The 16Arlington Kikka bag – named after Kikka Cavenati, co-founder and partner of designer Marco Capaldo, who died suddenly last year – is apparently all the rage in London. Last season, Capaldo curated a moving tribute to Kikka, and this collection was no different. He showed off dazzling minis, snakeskin column dresses and beautifully crafted coats.

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