‘Brilliant & Black’ designer Gina Love explains why this exhibition is so important

Starting September 22, the second iteration of the highly acclaimed exhibition Glossy & Black will be on display at Sotheby’s New Bond Street Galleries in London, returning with a new theme and a larger roster of black jewelry designers who will feature over 70 pieces of jewelry during the event.

This year, curator and jewelry editor Melanie Grant repeated her work with Sotheby’s to curate the exhibition under the theme 2022, Brilliant & Black: The Age of Enlightenment. Each of the 25 participating designers has created at least one new piece that focuses on this idea of ​​enlightenment, which Grant defined as a period of growth, individualism and intellectual reason.

Glossy & Black is Grant’s response not only to the social and cultural upheaval linked to movements like Black Lives Matter and the murder of George Floyd, but it is also designed to honor the skills, imagination and craftsmanship of post-war black jewelry designers. World War II to today.

Auvere lotus heart necklace
Auveroise designer Gina Love has created three new pieces for 2022 Glossy & Black exhibition, including this lotus heart-shaped necklace ($47,360), in 20-karat gold and adorned with 4.59 carats of diamonds (photo courtesy of Auvere).

The exhibition also aims to recognize black talentshowcase experimentation in jewelry and explore a new era of creativity, thanks in part to the arrival of eight new designers for this year’s event.

Among the new exhibitors for 2022 is Gina Loveco-founder and designer of Auverewho immigrated to the United States from Jamaica, worked as a corporate real estate lawyer and became a jewelry designer in part to introduce 22-karat and 24-karat gold jewelry to consumers, Love says.

Love says she was impressed with the 2021 Glossy & Black exhibition, the theme of which was A rebirth of jewelry. She follows Sotheby’s and many jewelers who were chosen for this first exposure on Instagram, and she made meeting Grant and attending this event a goal, she says.

Ring Apex gold Auvere
The Auvere mega gold apex ring ($15,790) is 24-karat gold and is inspired by the shapes of unopened lotus flowers and mountain peaks (photo courtesy of Auvere).

“I first heard of Mélanie when I bought her book, Coveted. I also knew she was the catalyst behind the Glossy & Black show – it was his idea. I told my publicist, Samantha Perriello, that I wanted to meet Melanie and the ever tenacious Samantha made that happen,” Love said.

When Love was selected to enter the 2022 contest Glossy & Black exhibit, she says the pressure was on and she never let up.

“I was excited and nervous at the same time,” Love says. “The creation and approval deadlines were quite tight, and I was in the middle of a photo shoot for Auvere at the time. Sometimes it’s hard for me to be creative on tap. I must be in the zone. But I wanted to be a part of it so badly that I made it work.

Auvere always sought to be a fine jewelry brand, Love says, but she also knew the business had to grow and be profitable. Taking a minute to slow down to think more about his creativity and what it means to be a black designer because being part of the Glossy & Black exposure turned out to be a turning point of sorts, says Love.

Auvere diamond arch chandelier earrings
Love says Auvere diamond bow earrings ($31,580) are handcrafted in 20-karat gold with 15 trillion-cut diamonds totaling 5.86 carats and pavé-set round diamonds totaling 0.89 carats. These earrings are Auvere’s ode to her hometown of New York and the Chrysler Building in particular (photo courtesy of Auvere).

“This exhibit gave me the opportunity to focus on making three unique pieces of jewelry, something I might not have done in a few years,” Love says. “I loved the process, and now I plan to launch at least one fine jewelry piece starting in 2023.”

Equally important is the sense of community that such exposure creates, adds Love.

“This exhibition allows me to meet so many jewelers live that I only know on Instagram,” says Love. “We are creatives with a passion for what we do and need to be recognized and seen, like most artists in the world.”

The exhibition will include all of its 25 participating artists through October 2 and through the end of October in an edited version, Sotheby’s said in a statement. All exhibits can be purchased in person or through the Buy now market, he said.

The complete list of artists participating in Brilliant & Black: The Age of Enlightenment: Disa Allsopp, Latoya Boyd, Shola Branson, Ndidi Ekubia, Gina Love, Pascale Marthine Tayou via Elisabetta Cipriani Gallery, Roxanne Rajcommar-Hadden, Sewit Sium, Melanie Eddy, Lola Fenhirst, Harwell Godfrey, Sheryl Jones, Vania Leles, Angie Marei, Satta Matturi, Johnny Nelson, Castro NYC, Jariet Oloyé, Jacqueline Rabun, Catherine Sarr, Maggi Simpkins, Karen Smith, Ron Anderson and David Ress, Lorraine West and Thelma West.

Terry Castro of Castro NYC died in July and Sotheby’s is exhibiting his work courtesy of his family.

High: Glossy & Black features pieces from 25 of the world’s leading black jewelery designers, including bespoke jewelery and iconic creations which will be on display from September 22 to October 2 at Sotheby’s London. From left to right: Jariet Oloyé ring, Angie Marei ring, Roxanne Rajcoomar-Hadden earrings (photo courtesy of Sotheby’s).

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