As designers continued to cancel their shows for London Fashion Weekwhich fell during the period of mourning for the late Queen Elizabeth II, the fashion pack prayed that Christopher Kane spring summer 2023 would remain on the program. Keeping it all crossed must have worked a trick, as Sunday night saw the return of one of London’s boldest talents to the Roundhouse in Camden, north London – a space more often used for gigs and gigs.
As fans of the Scottish designer lined up around the block in a queue that rivaled The Queue further south, there was buzz over what would be revealed. Christopher Kane’s shows are still a mystery.
Kane is known for his repeated tropes… there’s a love for latex, science book illustrations and sultry silhouettes… but each season brings an alchemical sense of magic to the mix. Spectators can never guess what the collection will include. And after a few seasons away from bridgewhen Kane focused on the artwork and, you know, took an enforced break during the pandemic, to say the guests were excited is an understatement.
So what did we see? For Christopher Kane spring summer 2023there were a few hints of Kane’s greatest hits on a colored buttermilk dress crafted from square panels of sheer organza, cutout flower prints spread across a sheer latex dress, and sheer vinyl straps snaking through the front and back of corset-style pieces…but it was far from be a retrospective of the greatest hits.
Always looking to the future, the oddest points of inspiration seem perfectly logical under Kane’s lens. See the scientific diagrams of anatomy transplanted onto silk dresses or cut-out bonnets that looked like Cady Heron’s best cut-out work on Regina George’s tank top. A floral twinset was paired with a pleated midi skirt that was encased in a vinyl panel to ensure it was miles away from granny’s favorite outfit while mint latex panels were worked into a Neat skirt suit, but edged with white lace for a subversive mix of textures and moods.
Uplifting and surprising, it’s the kind of collection that made audiences think about their existing wardrobe and will resonate with your own outfit choices for seasons to come. We are ready for it, are you?
Read more about Glamor UK Fashion Director at large Alex Fullerton here or follow her on Instagram